so I am reading lolita by nabokov. adam suggested it to me while we were perusing a book vendor on the street in manhattan. it's turned out to be a perfect book for paris...humbert humbert lived here and uses little french sayings throughout his writing, while nabokov's intensely imagistic prose keeps my thought process in a more poetic state of mind. I tend to sit on my 80's couch bed and look out the window which presents the building opposite of our apartment across the four flights of steps in the rue des abesses alley. Yesterday I woke up earlier than jill and adam, not by much. We took turns using the shower (amazing water pressure) and using pens to finish off our post cards because we were mailing them from the eiffel tower...yes I said eiffel tower! Our planned second stop du jour. Walked down to the little boulangerie with the kind shopkeep, only to pass it by a block, and realize it was closed on mardi et mercredi. So we jaunted back up to our street to a smaller, less amazing place where I bought a chevre quiche, adam a chevre pizza chaud, jill a sandwich, me an orangina and pain au chocolat for a later group snack. We walked up to the teeny square sat on a bench and felt the wind battle with the sun as we ate. A cowboy dude played his acoustic loudly, andsang that sean kingston(?) beautiful girl song, and some others in english...americainy english. A woman behind us on a similarly situated bench sat with her GINORMOUS great dane dog. Tons of pups in this town...a lot of terriers and goldens, but occasional pugs poodles and shaggy dogs. As we left I chatte with cowboy who is from texas but spends 6 months here and 6 months in the carribean every year. (whoa.) we found a post office to buy stamps, stuck them, and took the train down to the champs elysses to find the arche de triomphe and la duree for macarons. I also had to sing my little champs elysses song for adam and jill, that I learned in Madame aguilar's french class at amador. We found la duree....it was BEAUTIFUL and dark inside, got in line, then adam tried to snap a photo. Enter fussy french shopkeeper #342.k chignon, pinch nosed la duree meany. She wagged her finger immediately PAS DE PHOTOS an went back up to the front of the line. The pastries were beyond. (La duree did all the pastries in Sofia Coppola's Marie antoinette. ok.) I got more and more nervous as we approached the rows of rainbow macarons....I told adam and jill to let me handle it because I knew this was going to be rough. Sure enough I get the meany. (there were like five ladies back there) I say everything correctly, and quickly, picked out from the menu and my pronunciation wasnt AWFUL. she asked me if that's all and I said yes. then adam walksup to me and asks me to order a box for his mom. shit. I knew this would set her off. and I lacked the vocab to make clear that I wanted an additional box, so she thought I wanted a replacement, which I sorted out to her huffy limit...it took might to ignore the line of staring parisians behind me. But it worked. And the next thing you know, dear reader, we're sitting in the middle of the base of the arch de triomphe tasting and savoring an entire box of macarons...adam loved vanilla, i still loved pistache (but caramel with fleur de sel was nice...) jill liked the rose. The arch de triomphe is FUCKING HUGE, and I couldn't imagine having to build it. I said this to adam and jill while walking to the eiffel tower. It was cute, because my super base statement stopped them in their tracks and made them admire the arch again. We wound our way down the rue kleber (keebler to jill) and found the massive structure that is the eiffel tower. We rode the elevator of the north leg up to the second tier. Then we took the elevator up to the summit. I thought I would cry, but I didn't. It was gorgeous, but filled with tourists, and felt more like a structure and less like a feeling. I think I liked it more from the top of the hill at montmartre by the sacre coeur...the views were ofcourse breathtaking and also made mine and adam's knees tickle with fear of falling. Jill didn't mind. We took the stairs down from the second level to the first, dropped off our postcards, and ate our pain au choc (not as good as the other bou) The sky was blue, and perfect for this visit. Our feet began to hurt here, so we found the palais de tokyo/modern art museums. This is like the emb of sf....watched boys skate for a minute to rest our foots on a ledge in the sun. We were too tired to go into the museums, so we took the metro to Haussman to find an H&M and maybe a bier. The H&M's are the exact same as ours, just so you know. While waiting for adam and jill outside, some old parisian man asked me for directions!(love it) We couldn't find a good bier spot, we became hungry too, so we took the train back home to drink some wine and figure out a spot. We headed down to the road, and found a restaurant with salades geantes! Like the intermezzo of paris! huge ass bowl of salad with a layer of fried potatoes on top, mine had bacon (more like thick pancetta) warmed goat cheese on toast, tomatoes lettuce and a nice vinaigrette. Jill had the vegetarian, and adam had like a nicoise. We ordered a bottle of rose too. they were malicious these salads! and we ate them fairly slow for americans...but the waitress wouldn't bring the check, despite our plates being cleared. JIll wanted to jet and wasnt sure how to go about it...(i was ok waiting...but I was mostly staring at a nearby table of hotness) so jill kinda yelled MADAM! trying to get her attention. This didn't work. in fact i knew it was pissing the waitress off...but at the same time, I dont want to lecture my friend....she does it again twice...the gal is clearly ignoring us now. So i ask for adam and jill to wait outside, the leave. The waitress notices this, and I kinda do the Im sorry smile, with a shrug. she smiled back and brought me the check saying je ne desire ca...I dont need that. I said sorry, and apologized. and paid. We talked it out on the walk down to pigalle to square away my meeting spot for kris the following day. We passed by a familiar looking cafe....les deux moulins! Amelie's spot! really cute. Found a brioche place to wait for my kris. We then bought some chocolate, grabbed wine and coats from the apartment and jotted up the sacre coeur for step hanging. so did everyone else! this is the spot at night! We passed lots of cafes...I saw my color advisor, and said bonsoir! It's nice to belong to a neighborhood and not a hotel. I want to move here super bad. At the top of the hill I began to get that angst in my tummy when I don't want to leave...this only ever happened when I'd drive home from tahoe in highschool. I feel in my bones i shouldn't leave here. Anyway,we drank the red wine, we talked about old friends and drank more of the wine, avoided some surly teens on the walk home, drank my dessert wine at the apartment, and fell to sleep.
me with my headphones on. amelie style.